Category: Aconcagua Guided Climb

Aconcagua Argentina – You should come climb this mountain

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From the vicinity of «Casa de piedra», we leave the valley of the «de las Vacas» river to follow the «de los Relinchos» river westwards. Here the slope increases and several slopes of tiresome traffic follow one another. Finally you access a meadow at 3,800 m. But it is convenient to keep going up and cross the river with its steep banks and continue up to a large square rock about 20 meters high and very characteristic. Immediately you must go down a few tens of meters, to a large esplanade very exposed to the winds, but with water and favorable for camping, Plaza Argentina 4100. Climb Aconcagua

The approach from Punta de Vacas is about 60 km and a little over 2,000 m of elevation gain. It is convenient to do it in three days.

The Times (days)

Punta de Vacas – “Leñas” Refuge: 3 to 6 a.m. – Day 1

“Leñas” Refuge – Vacas River crossing – “Casa de Piedra” Refuge: 5 a.m. to 8 a.m. – Matchday 2

“Casa de piedra” shelter – Plaza Argentina: 5 a.m. to 8 a.m. – Day 3

Access routes from Argentina

Glacier of the Poles

East Glacier Aconcagua Expedition

The Aconcagua… The Stone Sentinel… In its buried slopes, where the ice and the wind are sovereign, extremes are often touched: the beginning and the end of a path; success and failure; life and death.

Mythical mass that raises its top towards the stars, while its shadow is projected from the desert to the ocean. Scene of unusual stories, of great gestures of courage and heroism. Also debunker of vanities and fears. In this demanding environment, man shows himself as he is, there is no room for lies.

How far is it valid to risk your life to reach the top of it?

The answer only fits up there. nobody, lounging in the lukewarmness of a timorous life, can judge the one who wastes his own vitality. High-altitude mountaineering involves serious risks and whoever decides to practice it must be absolutely and exclusively responsible for their actions. Aconcagua Hike

Today mountaineering is a game. A game of fantasy and power where technique, physical ability, experience, ethics and determination converge. Mountains as mountaineering goals only exist in the imagination of man, in his fantasy. Ascension is conceived as if it were a problem and a playful solution is sought for it. The game consists of cleanly overcoming the greatest difficulties with the help of the least possible technological means with the highest degree of skill, training and audacity. Mountaineering as a means for the human being to grow. You should not fight against nature, but adapt to it, understand it, respect its rhythm and try to assimilate the power it contains. Only in this way will beautiful solutions continue to be achieved for the “big problems” of mountaineering. And only through this vision of the game, whoever plays it cleanly, will have access to unsuspected dimensions of their own being and of the whole world.

Aconcagua Argentina – 6 months of prior preparation

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This exit variant simplifies the climb of the last third of the South wall.

From the “Upper Glacier”, instead of going to the right in search of the base of the spur that the French followed in 1954, take a clear left of the visual vertical of the northern peak. In the direction of the “Guanaco” pass that extends between the two peaks of the mountain.

Aconcagua Mountain Guides

Climb the slopes of ice and snow that lead to an obvious rocky fringe. Slopes from 50° to 55°. The rocky strip is climbed in an ascending traverse to the left, 5 or 6 pitches of mixed terrain, (IV) and some passage of (V). Belay possibilities on natural ledges, poor quality rock. The start, depending on the general snow conditions, can be on very dangerous frozen mud.

The beginning of the slope of ice and terminal snow is thus gained. This large, very open terminal channel has an average slope of 50°. It is dominated to the left by a large hanging serac that is threatening and dangerous in the event of landslides.

Go straight up the great channel to a small rocky barrier (6,700 m), go around it to the left and continue until you reach the “guanaco” crest or summit ridge. From the “Upper Glacier” to the crest about 8-12 hours. It is possible to bivouac in the lateral cracks of the hanging serac (6,650 m). From the starting point to the top there are about 2 hours.

Aconcagua Ascents

When the conditions of the wall are unfavorable (excessive accumulation of recent snow or, on the contrary, a winter with few snowfalls), the Messner variant is dangerous; Therefore, the original exit/54 is advisable, technically more difficult, but exposed to fewer objective dangers. If the snow is abundant, the dangers of being swept away by an avalanche in the “Messner Canal” are very great. Likewise, when there is little consistent snow that fixes the rocks of the top edge and other upper areas, the channel collects the constant falls of fast projectiles.

Beyond difficulties and dangers, the Messner/74 route is the most elegant route on the southern wall of Aconcagua, after the Slovenian route/82, direct to the southern peak. Plaza Argentina is located at 4,100 meters and is a good place to camp. To access this place, you start from the town of Punta de Vacas (2,400 m) and go up the “de las Vacas” river to the north. There is water and firewood throughout the creek, the path is well marked.

Aconcagua Treks

On the orographic right bank of the «de las Vacas» river, 15 km away is the «Casa de las Leñas» refuge (2,350 m). At 31 km (from Punta de Vacas) you cross the river of Las Vacas. Finally, and on the orographic left bank of the same river, rises the small shelter «Casa de piedra» (3,060 m), 47 km from the starting point, just in front of the mouth of the «de los Relinchos» ravine. This small shelter blends in with the landscape and is difficult to find, there is water in the area.

Aconcagua Argentina – Never Give Up Your Dreams

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Starting from camp 2, climb obliquely to the left (direction East), until you reach the glacier. It is climbed directly to the right of it (orography left), slopes of 30 to 35 degrees. Then the glacier begins to gradually rise until it reaches a maximum inclination of 45 to 48 degrees, around 6,450 – 6,550 meters. Here you cross the “bottleneck” and continue straight up, while the Aconcagua 360 Route slope decreases slightly. Finally, the edge that limits the south wall is reached. Here the inclination decreases very noticeably and it is possible to walk in the snow. The descent can be done by the same route or by the normal route, the latter being the most advisable and fastest option.

The descent along the normal route is developed first by the “canaleta”, then to the north in a traverse crossing next to the “Peñon Martinez”, arriving at the “Portezuelo de los vientos” and, finally, the “Independencia” refuge at 6,250 meters . From this shelter directly down to the North-East. Camp 2 is perfectly located.

How to Climb Aconcagua

The “Stone Sentinel” rises to the sky, to the south, (an immense wall almost 3,000 meters high and 7 kilometers wide). The legendary French mountaineer Lionel Terray visited the great wall during the southern summer of 52/53, after climbing the once mythical Fitz Roy. He considered then that the impressive wall of ice and rock constituted a colossal alpinistic problem. And he was not wrong…

The aspect of the South wall as a whole is one of difficulty, danger and, at that moment, almost impregnable. But it is very clear that mountaineers of all times hate the word impossible. During the southern summer of 53/54, a strong French expedition led by Rene Ferlet reached the bottom of the “Horcones inferior” ravine, on the margin of the glacier of the same name. There they installed their comfortable base camp, in what is now known as “Plaza Francia” (4,100 m), ready to besiege the wall of the great mountain.

After acclimatizing and carefully studying the slope, they chose the large spur that limits the gigantic central avalanche channel of the wall to the right. This spur is relatively protected from any falling ice or rocks. Towards the end of the second third it is interrupted to give rise to a large balcony of ice called “Upper Glacier”. This is a hanging glacier that pours its ice cascades into a void of almost 2,000 meters and constitutes one of the main dangers of climbing on the south face.

Aconcagua Guided Climb

They used more than a month of acclimatization and preparations, during which they equipped the first difficult sections of the spur with fixed ropes. Towards the end of February, 6 climbers launched themselves to the top. The group was made up of G.Poulet, R. Paragot, P. Lesseur, L. Berardini, A. Dagory, E. Denis, at that time the best French mountaineers, which was equivalent to saying in the world.

For seven days they struggled between the unstable rocks and the ice, severely affected by the cold, they finally managed to reach the top. There was then talk of “heroic bravado.” Undoubtedly the French created one of the hardest routes in the world, being at the time, the most difficult wall, with the greatest slope and the highest above sea level, that avant-garde mountaineering managed to climb.

Aconcagua Climbing – Information Necessary for Your Expedition

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The climate that affects the protected area that we analyze can be classified as a Temperate semi-arid mountain. It is characterized by the irregularity of the rainfall regime that the variations that, in this aspect, suffer from the area due to the climatic influence of the Atlantic domain, with summer rains, and the Pacific domain with its predominantly winter rainfall. Important in the Aconcagua treks.

Despite the great distance that separates it from the Atlantic, this mountainous part receives from that sector the low humidity that generally precipitates in the form of significant snowfalls in the highest positions, during May to August mostly. Its frequency and magnitude decrease towards the east.

From the Pacific, the climate is most influenced by the action of the Pacific anticyclone that generates westerly winds. These winds rise, and when they collide with the hills of the mountain range. The Chilean coast is affected by two well-differentiated currents, the Humbold one, the southern sector. Depending on the origin of the wind, both influence the area, although, to a much greater extent, the winds of the southwestern sector are necessary for the Aconcagua Mountain guides.

In the mountain range, the ascent of the air is made markedly through the hills’ valleys and slopes, and due to the low pressure that exists in the summits, this air generally rises during the afternoons and forms accumulations but is not produced. At night the opposite phenomenon occurs, and the wind blows from the top towards the valleys.

Like all regions with marked altitudinal variations, the temperature is a climatic factor dependent on them.

In the entire Cuyana mountain range, strong cold winds from the west and south-west sector occur in winter, which when they blow together with snowfalls, the dreaded white wind is formed. Under particular atmospheric conditions, these same winds cross the Before undergoing abrupt changes that make them hot and dry when they reach the lowlands, as occurs with the folkloric Zonda wind.

As for the summer temperatures, it must be taken into account that during the nights, over 5,000 m.a.s.l. -20 ° C is a non-exceptional value, and at the top, it reaches -30 ° C. In Plaza de Mulas, in times of bad weather conditions are usually –18 C °. During winter, the area is heavily covered with snow, and the temperature rarely exceeds 0 ° C. the location area of ​​the Aconcagua Ascents Provincial Park allows it to be classified phytogeographically according to Cabrera (1976) .in what he calls the High Andean Province, which encompasses all the high mountains that are located west of Argentina from the Bolivian territory to Tierra del Fuego. According to the latitude, this biome is divided into districts, denominating the High Andean Cuyano District that occupies the Andes of San Juan and Mendoza provinces. The classification made by PRODIA (1999) does not differ too much from the one mentioned above, only that the latter starts at approximately 38º Lat.S. towards the south, it ceases to be called the Eco-region of the High Andes to be called the Patagonian Forests, due to the presence of the Valdivian jungle in this sector.

Aconcagua Climbing – Glaciers and Formations on Aconcagua

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The glacial action was much more significant in the past, and the geomorphology that can be seen today is modified by the action of subsequent processes such as mass removal and fluvial action. The current glaciers of the mountain range in general, which therefore affect the Aconcagua Guided Climb, are classified as valley glaciers, mountain glaciers, and snow patches; These, in turn, can be presented as uncovered, covered by debris and rock glaciers. Almost the entire fluvial network of Mendoza corresponds to the Desaguadero basin formed by the Mendoza, Tunuyán, Diamante and Atuel rivers. The Barrancas and Grande rivers that form Colorado do not integrate the mentioned basin in the southern part.

All these watercourses are born in the mountainous area and descend to the plains, where they interrupt their basins due to their intense use for irrigation. They are antecedent rivers (which conserved their courses since before the orographic formations) that cross the mountains through enormous gorges eroded during the tertiary movements, and practice many of them lack water for much of the year and with the spring thaw their channels are They make it very torrential.

The Mendoza River is formed from the union of the Tupungato and Las Cuevas rivers. It receives the waters of the Horcones, Santa María, and Vaca’s rivers that descend from Aconcagua. Note the difference in the flow of a river that feeds on thaws such as the Mendoza, comparing its average flow, calculated at approximately 55 m3 / sec., With 750 m3 / sec. that reaches in the summer.

Aconcagua 360 Route is surrounded to the west and southwest by the Río de Los Horcones that runs through the valley of the same name and part of the northern and eastern sectors by the Río de las Vacas. The Los Relinchos stream is born on the eastern slopes, which feeds the Vacas river after a short journey.

There are no glacial lakes, and we only see some remains of them in the form of small buckets in the high mountains.

The Laguna de Los Horcones is the most critical water mirror in the preserved area. Glaciers, those enormous masses of ice that occupy the highest parts of the massifs, have their maximum expression in conservation unity.

Two are found on the southern slope (Horcones inferior and Horcones superior glaciers) and the resulting glaciers on the North and Northeast slopes, the main one being Las Vacas, located at the head of the homonymous river.

How to climb Aconcagua

On the south and east walls, the aforementioned Polish glacier stands out, with an area that reaches 700 hectares, and the Güssfeld glacier with a site that exceeds 1,000 hectares.

Aconcagua Climbing – Interesting Facts About Aconcagua

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The Aconcagua hill is located at the southern end of the chain called Los Penitentes and with its 6,959 meters above sea level. It carries the attribute of being the highest elevation in the American continent and its great height, like that of other nearby hills. It does not correspond to active volcanic structures such as Tupungato, but instead, its current altitude results from the tectonic uplift of the mountain range. It is guarded by high-rise colossi such as Cerro Catedral to the northwest with 5,200 meters above sea level, El Cuerno (5,450), Bonete (5,100), and others located in the Valle de Los Horcones Superior. In the so-called Valle de los Horcones Inferior are the Ibáñez hills (5,200), the Mirador hill (5,800) among the highest. Between 27º and 33º 30 ‘, no quaternary volcanism is observed, and seismic activity is concentrated in a thin strip along the western edge, which coincides with the most active geotectonic zone where significant earthquakes occur.

A remarkable characteristic is that only the very high peaks are covered by glaciers, which occurred during a series of advances during the Quaternary since the lower limit of eternal snow is very high due to aridity and intense insolation. This gives rise to the erection of the penitents, a very characteristic formation of this area of ​​the Andes, consisting of mounds of snow about 3 meters high with the appearance of monks. Caused by the melting of the superficial layers of the snow due to the intense insolation that by forming furrows that deepen over time, the area is covered with those sharply aligned mounds. These formations, due to their appearance, give their name to the Los Penitentes chain of elevations. Drainage occurs in high peaks such as Aconcagua by a vast network to which the melting of ice and snow is added, which forms a very dense material that favors rubble slopes frequently.

The “stone sentinel,” meaning the origin of the word Aconcagua Argentina in the Quichua language, is about 12 kilometers from the border with the sister Republic of Chile. Its coordinates are 32º 39′ Lat.S and 70º 01′ Long. O. (Atlas I.G.M., 1998). They are 71,000 hectares of mountainous terrain’s dry, arid environment with little vegetation on the slopes. The foothills are from extensive ranges separated by huge valleys whose height sometimes drops to 2,000 meters above sea level. On the south wall and also on the one that faces east, Mount Aconcagua has impressive glaciers such as the so-called Polaco that runs along this slope between approximately 6,900 and 5,900 meters above sea level, with an area close to 700 hectares and the Güssfeld, with much more extension than above. One of the largest in the area is the La Vacas glacier, with  ​​almost 2,000 hectares.

Aconcagua Climbing – Structure and Age of Aconcagua

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Law 5,463 approves the primary zoning proposed by the Advisory Commission referred to above and authorizes the Executive Branch to grant two hectares in Plaza de Mulas for 50 years to construct a hotel. Then, in 1990, another legal instrument – Decree 2,819 – established various regulations related to mountaineering, setting tariffs, the season for promotions, security systems, and other items related to these issues. The “framework law” that orders everything related to the protected areas of the province of Mendoza is the one that bears the number 5,630.

Relief, The geological-structural constitution of the mountain range, is complex, and for its analysis can be divided into three sufficiently differentiated parts. One of them is the one that extends approximately between parallels 28º and 34º, a portion that in turn can be subdivided into two parallel cords, an eastern one called Cordillera Frontal and the other western, where the Aconcagua climb Provincial Park is located, which leads by name Cordillera Principal or del Límite, which is about 70 kilometers wide south of the Diamante River and narrows towards the north, where it only reaches 30 kilometers in the region of the prospected Park. It is significant to clarify that these two chains do not have a well-defined division between them, except for a few small sections, and that both sections are ideally linked .The main difference between them is the type of rocks that compose it. The Main Cordillera is formed by layers of marine sediments with fossils from the Jurassic and Cretaceous ages and pyroclastic rocks on the western side (González Bonorino, 1958). At the same time, it is separated from the Precordillera – a different mountain formation – by several valleys that, at the height of the surveyed area, is Uspallata that fulfills this purpose. Aconcagua Expeditions is located at the southern end of the chain called Los Penitentes and with its 6,959 m.a.s.l. It carries the attribute of being the highest elevation in the American continent and its great height, like that of other nearby hills. It does not correspond to active volcanic structures such as Tupungato, but rather its current altitude results from the tectonic uplift of the mountain range. It is guarded by high-rise colossi such as Cerro Catedral to the northwest with 5,200 meters above sea level, El Cuerno (5,450), Bonete (5,100), and others located in the Valle de Los Horcones Superior. In the so-called Valle de los Horcones Inferior are the Ibáñez hills (5,200), the Mirador hill (5,800) among the highest. Between 27º and 33º 30 ‘, no quaternary volcanism is observed, and seismic activity is concentrated in a thin strip along the western edge, which coincides with the most active geotectonic zone where significant earthquakes occur. You have to achieve climbing Aconcagua

Aconcagua Climbing – Climbing Aconcagua is Very Challenging

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With the wind and the cold, “La Travesía” becomes endless, a long way along the north face, a large stone appears “El Gendarme” protects us a little, and I take the opportunity to drink some tea, but the thermos froze. Fortunately, Gabriel assists me. We advance to the beginning of the much commented and difficult “Canaleta” (6,700 mts.), The last 300 meters with a significant slope of loose rocks that making the ascent very difficult. We put on the crampons and … one, two, three steps up and one, two, three, or four back. Climb, slip and fall. What motivation does it take to endure exhaustion, lack of oxygen, and fear? It is here that history has left more than 100 people dead, attempting this boldness. Climb Aconcagua is very challenging.

We try to approach the Canaleta on its left side, climbing through small glaciers, two steps and rest, until the Cuesta del Guanaco, the edge that separates the two summits (the South 6,950 meters and the North 6,962 meters). Now everything at the top, great overexertion and a lot of courage, at this point it is pure feeling, it is very little rational in one, the rationing capacity with this lack of oxygen is estimated at 30/40% of normal.

How bad I feel, I try to draw strength from wherever there are few. I can’t give up now !!!, the Summit is there, just by stretching my hand … I can’t get there … I look back, many have been left on the road …

Another step and another and … Summit. How impressive, what a great cry, how many tears win me! I reached the roof of Los Andes !! The Aconcagua Expedition Provincial Park is located in the northwest of the province of Mendoza, department of Las Heras, approximately 190 kilometers from the provincial capital and the border with the Republic of Chile only 12 kilometers separate it.

Its coordinates, taking Mount Aconcagua as a reference, are 32º 39′ South Latitude and 70º 01′ West Longitude (some author differs slightly with this last data, recording it as 69º 59′ Long.O.). In April of April 1983, Decree-Law 4,807 of the province of Mendoza was promulgated, which gives rise to the Aconcagua Provincial Park, and in it, the physical limits that give it an area of ​​close to 71,000 hectares are determined. This decree declares it a “total reserve zone for preserving flora, fauna and archaeological material.” Subsequently, in 1989, Decree 1,034 established that the Park would be administered by the Directorate of Renewable Natural Resources, with the collaboration of a Permanent Advisory Commission, made up of representatives of different organizations. Aconcagua Hike demands the best of you always.

Aconcagua Climbing – A Dream Come True

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The experience begins at Puente del Inca, entrance to the Aconcagua National Park (1,900 mts.). From there, trekking to Confluencia awaits us, an intermediate camp at 3,380 mts., A couple of excursions are made, one of them to Plaza Francia (4,400mts), the base camp of the much-feared South face of Aconcagua Ascents, a 3,000 m vertical wall. Of ice, glaciers, rocks, and many avalanches.

 

From Confluencia, through Playa Ancha, after many kilometers and the final Cuesta Brava, we arrive at Plaza de Mula (4,370 mts.), The first effects of the altitude begin to be felt: headache, nausea, fatigue, lack of appetite, insomnia, dyspnea. As I now understand the ironic response of a great English climber, who was asked what training he did for his ascents to the Himalayas: “When I’m at home I try to go to a bar every day, and I try to get drunk, because that’s the feeling. that I have every time I exceed 5,000 meters. “… and it’s true, even hangover when I wake up after a sleepless night.

Already in Plaza de Mulas, after a few days of rest and two excursions: Glaciar Horcones Superior and Cerro Bonete (5,100 mts.), We began to prepare “the attack to the summit.” In the usual route or North Face of the Aconcagua treks, there are several intermediate camps, areas with slight slopes where you can camp and make the different scales of the ascent: Plaza de Mula (4,370 mts.), Canada (5,000 mts.), Change of Slope. or Alaska (5,300 mts.), Nido de Cóndores (5,500 mts.) and Berlin (5,960 mts.).

 

The attack “begins with a portage to the first high camp (tents, food and something significant, the elements to make water, hydration is essential, you have to drink up to 7 liters of water per day and this melting ice from the small glaciers). Return to Plaza de Mulas, a rest, and the beginning of the final stage. Return to high camp No. 1, where you spend a day or two, depending on the weather situation, from there to high camp No. 2, Berlin, and everything. Under one, fantastic views begin to appear, an endless horizon and the sun in the Pacific. How great are these Aconcagua Mountain guides !!

We started in Berlin very early, around 2 in the morning, with the preparations, as it is difficult to dress, make water, try to eat something. It is 5 o’clock, and we start the march; we must try to reach the summit before 2 in the afternoon; then, the Pacific winds make the situation very unstable.

How brave it is to start, how cold I feel the -26 degrees that my watch marks, and how I feel the height. We make the ascent very slowly, a few steps, a few steps on the stones and rest … the first stop is in the old Refugio Independencia (6,300 mts.), From there with light, we enter “La Travesía,” passing through the ” Portezuelo del Viento “where the Pacific currents cross, which winds 60/80/100 or more km. Per hour, it isn’t easy to walk and stand upright.

Aconcagua Climbing – Alternative Itinerary for Aconcagua

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During the trip and approach marches, a diet of fresh vegetables, meats, salads, milk, eggs, and fruits will be projected as much as possible in camp. As for the altitude menu, the dominant factor should be the choice of food by the mountaineer himself according to his tastes, always considering the caloric wealth necessary for eating at altitude. It will be complemented with some vitamin complex compensates for the diet deficiencies in some of its aspects. A fundamental factor in the diet is represented by the ingestion of at least 2 liters of liquid. In Mendoza, you can buy everything you need for food, including some dehydrated foods.

Aconcagua Guided Climb

Generally from December to March. Experience indicates that although the “peak” months are colder, their climate is more stable. A correct calculation of the time is to have several reserve days planned to wait for the right time in the storm. A “Sombrerete de humo,” white wind on the Aconcagua Summit, is a sign of a storm in height, advising not to continue ascending.

GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS

HEIGHTS AND TYPES OF LAND

How to climb Aconcagua

Mendoza, 735 meters above sea level. Capital city.

Los Puquios. Mule service for the transport of expeditions. A place for campers (in front of the Andinistas cemetery), 1 km. before Puente del Inca on the route from Mendoza.

Inca Bridge 2,730 mts. Broken. Roads, Police, Telegraph, etc. There is an inn.

Laguna Horcones, 2,900 mts. Lagoon and glacial moraines. Ranger Control.

Confluence, 3,200 meters. Broken. Animal Trail.

Plaza de Mulas Superior, 4,230 mts. Glacial moray eels. Track.

Portezuelo “Manso”, 5,200 mts. Haulage. Paths.

Refuge “Antártida Argentina”, 5,500 mts. Haulage. Paths.

Shelters 6,000 mts. Pedregal. Traces of snow.

Shelters 6,500 mts. Scree and snow.

Peñón Martínez. Pedregal, 6,600 mts.

Final gutter, 6,800 mts. Large stones. Tilt approximately 45 °.

South summit, 6,900 mts. Passages of rock, ice, snow.

North summit, 6,959 mts. Rocky. A Christian cross frames it, and an Argentine flag guards it. Aconcagua, my first high mountain !!!. Why Aconcagua? A companion asked the question of the expedition, a German, who had already done a couple of experiences in height, Mont Blanc and Kilimanjaro. I replied that the Aconcagua 360 Route is “the most” for an Argentine, the highest peak, outside the Himalayan chain, our mountain, our symbol of height, of challenge, and it is there … just there.

Now I have so much to show, so much to tell, feelings that come from its peak … over-effort meets courage.

It was not a walk; it was not a pleasure trip; it was not even something pleasant. A very high mountain, located in one of the coldest and driest regions, temperatures of -30 degrees with an ambient humidity of 5%, make it a rugged mountain to climb, so much so that the great experts consider it 8,000 meters.

But everything started lower and in stages. At this point, several issues must be considered: clothing, physical condition, acclimatization, motivation and, above all, planning