Climbing Aconcagua: A Complete Roadmap to Routes, Preparation, Permits, and the Summit

A. An Overview of Aconcagua and Its Environment

At 6,961 meters (22,837 feet) high, Mount Aconcagua is the tallest mountain in South America and the world outside of Asia. The Andes, in the western part of Argentina (Mendoza Province), are home to this huge hill. Mountain climbers from all over the world come here every year to try to reach one of the famous Seven Summits. Mountain hikers from all over the world see Aconcagua Argentina as both a natural landmark and a rite of passage.

The name of the mountain comes from Quechua or Aymara, and it can mean anything from “Stone Sentinel” to “white ravine.” The Normal Route goal of climb Aconcagua is often called a “non-technical climb,” but this is a very dangerous mistake. High altitude, strong winds, extreme cold, and other tough physical conditions make it a very hard task that is failed about 60% to 70% of the time.

You must spend months getting ready for climbing Aconcagua. During that time, you work on your fitness, plan your route, buy gear, and prepare your thoughts. Every season, between 3,500 and 4,000 climbers try to reach the top of the mountain. This makes it one of the most famous high-altitude goals in the world. A lot of people are trying, but most of them are still not successful. This shows how dangerous any Aconcagua expedition is.

B. Getting to know the mountain’s shape and personality

Cerro Aconcagua rises from high desert valleys with few plants and dramatic rock formations. The Andes can be seen from here. There are many faces and ridges on the mountain, and each one has its own set of climbing challenges and adventures. It is possible to get to the northwest face from the Horcones Valley and follow the well-known Normal Route. During the summer climbing season, this is where most Aconcagua expeditions put most of their efforts.

Normal Route goes to the northwest, and Polish tracks go to the east through the Vacas Valley. These are the Aconcagua two faces most people who have climbed remember. It’s very different between these faces when it comes to people, scenery, and getting used to the altitude. One of the most scary big walls in the Western Hemisphere is on the southern face. It’s about 3,000 meters high and has mixed climbing that is so hard that only the best mountain hikers should try it.

Four base camps are set up between 4,200 and 4,400 meters above sea level. The Normal Route goes through Plaza de Mulas, and the Polish Route goes through Plaza Argentina. There are a number of camps on the mountain that build on top of each other. People start their climbs to the top at the camps that are about 5,900 meters above sea level. Over the course of several days, the Aconcagua climb profile has a lot of vertical gain. Breaks are planned to help you get used to the air.

C. Things to Think About About Climate, Weather Patterns, and the Four Seasons

It is very important to know about Aconcagua’s weather before you try any Aconcagua ascension. The mountain is in the rain shadow of the Andes, but storms from the Pacific can still hit very fast. The best time to go climbing is different every time during the season, which lasts from November to March.

The core season lasts from the middle of December to the end of January. This is when the weather is the most stable, it’s warm, and all the base camp services work. However, this is also the busiest time, and trails and camps can feel crowded at times. You can try Aconcagua ascenso by yourself if you want to. The early or late season is best because fewer people are trying to do the same thing. It is colder, though, and the weather is less stable.

Temperature changes can be very big or very small, depending on the altitude and time of day. The Plaza de Mulas base camp can get up to 5 to 15 degrees Celsius hot in the summer. After sunset, the cold can intensify, with temperatures often falling as low as −10°C to −20°C. As you go up into the camps, it gets colder. At the peak, temperatures often drop to -25 to -40 Celsius, and that’s before the strong winds come. The famous “viento blanco,” or white wind, can reach speeds of over 100 miles per hour higher up. This dangerous wind chill stops people from reaching the top.

D. Different routes and some technical things to think about

As you pick your route, there are two main valley approaches from which to start your Aconcagua treks. To get to the Normal Route, go from the Horcones Valley. To get to the Polish trails, go from the Vacas Valley. When it comes to views, getting used to the altitude, and crowds, each way has its own pros and cons.

It is easiest to get to the top of the mountain by going up the Normal Route (Northwest Ridge), which is also the route that most people take. If the weather is good, the way isn’t too hard, but you need to be in great shape, make sure you’re used to the altitude, and be able to handle steep scree slopes and loose rock. When hikers are making their last push to the top, the famous Canaleta, a steep gully full of loose, tiring scree, tests them.

The Aconcagua Polish Route comes in from the east, beginning in the Vacas Valley. The Normal Route doesn’t give you as many chances to get used to the steep slope. In the end, this road should meet up with the Normal path higher up so that you can push to the top. Many experienced climbers like this path because it’s easier to get up and there are fewer people and more beautiful views. It generally makes the trip longer by one to two days.

It takes advanced mountaineering skills to climb the Polish Glacier Direct and several South Face routes. These routes are for technical climbers who want to go on harder routes. For example, you need to have experience with big walls, ice climbing, and going on glaciers. They should only be tried by skilled climbers who have done a lot of work at high elevations and have the right gear.

E. Making plans for the expedition’s timeline and length

You need to start planning your Aconcagua hike many months ahead of time if you want to be safe. Six to twelve months ahead of time, most climbers start getting ready. They can get in shape, buy gear, get permits, and make other plans during this time. This extra time is needed to build up the heart and muscle strength that weeks of hard work at a high elevation require.

It usually takes 18 to 20 days for an Aconcagua guided climb, starting with getting to and from Mendoza and ending with spending 15 to 17 days on the mountain. The idea of “climb high, sleep low” says that this amount of time is enough for proper acclimatization. It also gives hikers days in case of bad weather and a pace that most of them can handle. People who have already been hiking for a while can cut their plans down and reach the top in eleven to fourteen days. But these last-minute plans make getting mountain sickness much more likely.

A typical Normal Route Acomara Aconcagua expeditions schedule might take two days to get permits and get ready in Mendoza, two to three days to get to base camp, four to five days to get used to the altitude and carry loads, four to five days to set up higher camps and get ready for the summit, one to two days to try to reach the top in case of bad weather, and two days to go back down to the trailhead. This framework can be changed to fit different rates of adaptation and the fact that delays due to bad weather are inevitable.

F. Guided services vs. going up by yourself

You must decide if you want to climb with a trained guide or on your own. This is a big decision that affects safety, cost, and the quality of the experience. There is a lot of useful knowledge about the area, safety rules, and group support that Aconcagua mountain guides bring. This makes the chances of success much higher, especially for people who are climbing at a high altitude for the first time.

Professional expédition Aconcagua services handle everything from getting permits to finding the best way to get to your location. They also take care of food, group gear, base camp facilities, and mule services. Guides with a lot of experience decide when to reach the top, how fast to adapt, and when to turn back if things are getting worse. It’s possible that guide teams could save lives when altitude sickness hits because they can spot symptoms early and make sure that the right steps are taken for descent.

Mountain climbers with a lot of experience who want to save money and be on their own can still do it. Small or solo independent teams, on the other hand, must show that they can do everything by themselves, such as finding their way, reading the weather, giving first aid, and saving themselves. The climb Aconcagua cheap approach is much more dangerous, even for experienced mountain climbers. This is clear from the fact that solo climbers have much lower success rates than organized groups.

G. laws, rules, and other things that the law requires

All climbers must get a pass from the people in charge of Aconcagua Provincial Park before they start learning how to climb Aconcagua. You can’t give someone else your permit; it’s only good for a certain season or route. The pass system keeps the environment safe, pays for cleanup, and makes mountain climbers answerable.

Permit prices change a lot based on the time of year, the driver’s country, and the route they choose. There are three different price ranges for passes: early, late, and high season. The high season lasts from mid-December to January. People from Argentina and MERCOSUR countries save a lot of money compared to hikers from other countries. Some pre-sale plans let people who buy passes months ahead of time save an extra twenty to thirty percent.

The insurance that climbers need must cover medical evacuation and relief at high elevations for at least 7,000 meters. Most travel insurance plans don’t cover climbing above 4,000 to 5,000 meters, so you’ll need to find a company that only covers extreme sports. There are strict rules about how to deal with trash, set up camp areas, and follow the “Leave No Trace” attitude all over the park because of environmental laws.

H. Getting in shape and training physically

The first step to successfully reaching Aconcagua is to make a full training plan that includes a lot of different health tips. Heart and lung strength are very important because you’ll be moving heavy things over rough terrain for weeks at a time at a high elevation. A big part of your training should include long-duration aerobic activities that help your body work better with less air.

You can build up your stamina for summit day by running, cycling, hiking with heavy packs, and climbing stairs. On summit day, you’ll usually have to work hard for ten to fifteen hours straight at very high elevations. Start with short workouts three times a week for thirty to forty-five minutes each. As your Aconcagua 360 route expedition gets closer, slowly make your lessons two to three hours long. One or two times a week of high-intensity interval training will improve both your anaerobic endurance and your ability to recover.

For the legs, core, and upper body, it’s important to do workouts that make you stronger and tone your body. Your quads, hamstrings, and calves will have to do most of the work when you go up and down steep hills made of loose sand and rocks. Doing squats, lunges, step-ups, and leg press again for weeks at a time makes your muscles strong enough to climb. Core strength helps your body stay stable when you’re moving a heavy thing or when you’re tired from a long day.

I. Getting used to living at high levels and taking care of health

Understanding altitude physiology represents critical knowledge for any Aconcagua ascents attempt. When you go up, the air pressure drops. The amount of oxygen in the air stays the same at 21%, but there are fewer oxygen molecules in each breath. The amount of air at sea level is about 40% of what it is at the top of Aconcagua. Everything takes a lot more work for your body because of this.

Preparing for a major trekking Aconcagua expedition? Try practicing on mountains that are 3000 to 5000 meters high. This will help you get used to the altitude and make sure your gear works. Plus, they make you feel better about yourself. Mountain climbers in North America might think of Mount Rainier, Mount Shasta, or several fourteeners in Colorado. Mountain climbers from Europe can train in the Alps. Mountain climbers from other parts of the world should look for the tallest hills to get used to the height.

Getting used to the altitude be part of the “climb high, sleep low” plan. This means taking your gear to camps higher up and then sleeping at lower elevations. In this way, your body can slowly get used to it. In most Aconcagua trekking plans, there are days set aside just for getting used to the altitude. You can do nothing at all, take short walks to slightly higher levels, or rest at camp on these days to let your body get used to the mountain air. Too much time spent getting used to the altitude is a big reason why people fail to reach the top and get dangerous altitude sickness.

J. What altitude sicknesses are common and how to avoid them

Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) makes a lot of hikers who go above 3,000 meters sick and tired. It can also make you have trouble sleeping. Mild AMS is painful, but it generally goes away after you rest and drink the same amount of water every day. But going up while symptoms get worse can cause conditions that are so bad they can kill you.

People who have High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) or High-Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) need to go down right away to get better. People with HAPE have a lot of fluid in their lungs, which makes it hard to breathe, coughs, and feels tight in the chest even when they’re not moving. In HACE, brain swelling leads to severe headaches, confusion, loss of balance, and changes in how aware you are of things. In both cases, you could die within hours if you don’t get down quickly.

As you climb, be sure to stay hydrated, eat lots of carbs, stay away from alcohol and sleepy pills, and slowly ascend. If your doctor tells you to, you might also want to take acetazolamide (Diamox) as a preventative drug. As a high-altitude climber, the most important survival skill is being able to spot early signs and stop or go down right away.

K. Important gear and tools

Having the right gear for an Aconcagua expedition can mean the difference between success and failure, as well as between comfort and pain. It’s important that your gear can handle being in harsh conditions like very cold weather, strong winds, full sunlight for weeks on end, and more. It’s worth spending more on well-known names that make good quality items that last and work well even when things go wrong.

Layers are what the clothing system is based on. Base layers pull sweat away from your skin, mid-layers keep you warm, and top shell layers keep wind and rain out. For high camps and summit day, your main piece of clothing should be a very warm down or synthetic jacket that is rated for very cold weather. Besides that, you should have warm pants, a mask, neck gaiters, good eye protection, and a range of gloves, from thin liners to thick adventure mitts.

You should give some thought to what shoes you wear. You can choose between single or double warm climbing boots based on the path, the season, and how well you can handle the cold. For long days of climbing, your boots should be comfy and big enough to fit thick socks. They should also keep your toes from freezing on summit pushes when it’s very cold. When you wear well-made gaiters, snow and scree stay out of your boots and your legs stay warm.

L. Tools for work and camping stuff

Your sleeping bag needs to keep you warm at night, when it’s below 30 degrees Celsius at high camp. A sleeping bag that can handle temperatures of at least -25 to -30 Celsius and a good, heated sleeping pad will help you get the rest you need for the day you climb Aconcagua to the top. A lot of hikers use two sleeping pads on cold ground to keep warmer.

When you climb, different-sized backpacks come in handy for different tasks. A big adventure pack (75 to 90 liters) moves and hauls things when camp moves. Your peak pack, which is 30 to 40 liters small, holds the things you’ll need on the day of the Aconcagua climb. When you’re going downhill, trekking poles help your knees and give you more support when you’re on soft ground. Headlamps with extra batteries and lights are needed to start climbs early in the morning and do things at camp at night.

To go on different trips for climbing Aconcagua, you need different kinds of gear. Along the Normal Route, you only need hiking poles when the weather is nice. But on icy or mountain routes, you’ll need crampons and ice axes. In late winter or early spring, ice or hard snow can appear out of nowhere, so many climbers bring these things with them just in case. This is true even on the Normal Route.

M. Where to go and what to do at Base Camp

Mendoza is a busy city in Argentina that is about 122 km southeast of Aconcágua and where most Aconcagua expeditions to the mountain begin. A lot of hikers from other countries fly into Buenos Aires and then take a flight within Argentina to get to Mendoza. The city has many places to stay, from cheap hostels to fancy hotels. Outside stores let you buy or rent gear right up until the last minute.

You can get your licenses and medical checks in Mendoza for your Mount Aconcagua journey. You can also meet your guide team if you’re going on a planned trip and make any last-minute plans. The city, which is about 750 meters above sea level, doesn’t help you get used to the air, so most plans take you straight to the mountains.

Puente del Inca, the park gate and ranger office, is about a three-hour drive from Mendoza. From there, you can get to trailheads for your Aconcagua Argentina adventure. You’ll be driving through beautiful Andean scenery. You show your permit here, have your gear checked, and then you can start your real hike into the woods. The heavy expedition gear is taken to base camp by mules from here, so you can walk with just a daypack full of water, layers, and personal things.

Plaza de Mulas base camp is like a small town during the busy season for Cerro Aconcagua climbers. There are places to eat, set up tents, and go to the bathroom. Users of full-service base camps can also enjoy hot showers, WiFi, and meals that are just as good as those at a diner. If you want to heal faster and, in more comfort, these services are better than camping alone, but they cost extra on top of basic passes.

N. Every day on the normal route, you can go climbing

The normal way to do an Aconcagua guided climb starts with a moderate walk from the Horcones entrance to the camp at Confluencia, which is about 3,300 meters above sea level. The walk on the first day goes through the Horcones Valley and follows the river upstream through high desert. It takes three to four hours. A day to get used to the high altitude at Confluencia is often planned, along with a walk to Mirador Plaza Francia to get a different view of the South Face.

It takes seven to eight hours of hard work to get to Plaza de Mulas base camp on your Aconcagua hike. The trail goes for about fifteen kilometers and rises 4,300 meters. Along the bottom of the valley, the road goes by some cool rock formations. Going up to the huge base camp area, it gets steeper in the end. Most hikers get there tired but excited, ready to begin the acclimatization phase.

At base camp, people rest, go for short walks to help their bodies get used to the altitude, and take loads to higher camps every day during their Aconcagua treks. Along the way to Camp Canada, you could bring some gear with you. At night, you could return to base camp to sleep. Now you will move on to Camp Canada, which is about 5,150 meters above sea level. You will stay there for one or two nights. Before getting back to base camp, you might have to climb up to Camp Alaska. And yet, this yo-yo rhythm is needed for good acclimatization, even though it’s dull.

O. Peak Push and High Camps

At some point, you’ll have to permanently go higher and set up camp at either Nido de Condores (about 5,570 meters) or Camp Colera, which is also higher on your Aconcagua ascension journey. Living in these high camps is very hard because it is very cold and there isn’t much air. Even easy things take a lot of work. It takes a long time and a lot of work to melt snow for water, cook food, and put away gear at this level.

Every summit day for trekking Aconcagua starts with a small breakfast between midnight and two in the morning. Over rocky ground and scree slopes, the road slowly goes up in the dark, past the empty Independencia refuge. It ends at the top pyramid. The well-known Canaleta can be seen at dawn. Every climber must prove they are strong and healthy by going down this steep slope of loose scree. The ground is soft and there isn’t much air, so this part moves very slowly. Every step is a deliberate act.

Once the peak slope shows up during your Aconcagua ascenso, the climber gets their first look at the real top and a break from all their hard work. The last part takes you to the top along the summit ridge. At the top, there are several sites and, on clear days, stunning views that go all the way to Chile and the Pacific Ocean. The critical descent begins after a short time of partying and taking shots. You’ll need to pay close attention if you want to make it back to high camp and, hopefully, lower camps on the same day.

P. Plan your meals and make sure you get enough food and water

It gets harder to eat right as you go up on your Aconcagua Polish Route or Normal Route, but it’s more important than ever. You need more calories even though you’re not as hungry when you’re very high up. It’s hard because how much energy you have for peak day depends on how hard you push yourself to eat. Plan to eat simple, high-calorie foods that you enjoy because you will dislike them more at higher elevations.

People often eat oatmeal, cookies, energy bars, hot drinks, and anything else that sounds good in the morning when it’s cold on Aconcagua 360 route expeditions. People who climb for a living eat snacks like chocolate, energy drinks, cheese, sausage, and nuts for lunch on days when they’re outdoors. At camp, dinner might include freeze-dried food, instant noodles, rice, soup, and hot drinks. As you go up, you must cook your own food on a stove. At base camp, meals are planned and made for you by organized trips.

Because it is so dry in Aconcagua, it is always important to stay fresh when learning how to climb Aconcagua. It is very dry and thin air that makes you lose a lot of water. However, being cold makes you feel less thirsty. During the day, make sure to drink a lot—at least three to four pints. When you’re camping, hot drinks are a tasty way to stay hydrated and keep your body temperature steady. Your body loses minerals when you work out. Adding electrolyte pills to water can help your body get those minerals back.

Q. How to handle risks and follow safety rules

Many processes must work together to keep people safe on Aconcagua during any expedition attempt. Some of these systems are being ready, making smart choices, talking clearly, and being honest with yourself. People might get too sure of themselves because it’s easy to get to the mountain, but the fact that only 30 to 40 percent of people who try make it show how hard it is. A lot of strong walkers fail not because they aren’t fit, but because they don’t get used to the higher elevation, go at the wrong time of year, or don’t know how it can hurt them over time.

Some people think that the weather is the biggest real danger when you climb Aconcagua cheap or with professional services. At higher elevations, storms that move quickly and strong winds can make life dangerous. If you add extra weather days to your plan, you can wait for good top windows instead of trying to climb when the weather is bad. On peak day, set and stick to turn-around times. It’s much more likely that you will get hurt going down in the dark on lose ground.

You should have a long talk about how to spot and treat altitude sickness before you go up on any Aconcagua ascents. Everyone on the team should know what AMS, HAPE, and HACE look like and how to clearly decide when to go down. No matter how proud you are or how high your fever is, safety should always come first. If you get sick at high elevation and come down too late, you could die. The mountain will still be there for a second chance.

There are many ways to talk to each other, from simple agreements between small groups of people to radios or satellite phones carried by Aconcagua mountain guides and guide teams. Helicopter escape is a possible way to get help in some cases, but it should never be thought of as a sure thing. Most of the time, helicopters can’t fly because they can’t see, there are strong winds, or they are too high up. This means that the most important things for your safety are self-rescue and early fall.

R. Take care of the earth and honor other countries

There are strict rules about the environment in Aconcagua Provincial Park for all expédition Aconcagua attempts. These rules are meant to protect the fragile high-altitude ecosystem from the effects of the many tourists who visit every year. The human waste bags that are given out above base camp must be used to carry all human waste off the mountain. “Pack it in, pack it out” refers to all trash, food packaging, forgotten gear, and personal things.

Camps have clear areas where people can set up their tents during their Acomara Aconcagua expeditions. Outside of these places, you can’t camp. You can’t have a fire anywhere in the park. These rules come from the fact that hikers really hurt the environment when they don’t follow the rules. Over time, this makes a harsh climate even worse. The Leave No Trace rules must be always followed to keep Aconcagua open for future visitors.

Respecting people who work in the area, like arrieros (mule drivers), park guards, and base camp staff, will make your Aconcagua expedition experience better and show that you value their knowledge and hard work, which makes climbing possible. They put up with a lot of hardship and know a lot about the mountains. They should get paid fairly and be treated well. Being culturally aware means giving them the right amount of money and doing what they say.

S. Make a budget and list all your costs

No matter what way you choose for climbing Aconcagua, you will have to pay a lot of different fees that can add up to a few thousand dollars. Around $6,000 to $8,000 USD gets you guides, permits, mules, food, base camp services, group gear, and services for the mountain part of the trip. This price doesn’t cover flights outside of Argentina, lodging in Mendoza, personal things, insurance, or tips.

To save about $2,500 to $4,000 USD, climbers who do it themselves can, but they only save on guide fees when they climb Aconcagua. They still must pay for things like permits, insurance, horses, food, and transportation. If you bring your own food, own or rent the gear, and know that you’re more likely to fail and must go on another trip, the price difference becomes less important.

Different times of the year, different drivers, and different routes can make the pass fees range from $400 to over $1,000 for your Aconcagua climb. It takes an extra $200 to $500 to get insurance for this high altitude. There is a wide range of prices for tickets to and from Buenos Aires and Mendoza, but most of the time, they cost between $1,000 and $2,000 each way from North America or Europe. In Mendoza, it costs a few hundred dollars more to stay, eat, and get around. It can cost anywhere from a few hundred dollars to several thousand dollars to buy or rent personal gear, depending on what you already have.

T. How to Succeed and What Not to Do

If you know what makes some Mount Aconcagua climbs work and others not, you’ll have a better chance of getting to the top safely. To be successful, you need more than just good physical fitness. You also need to be able to handle the weather, eat well, and keep your mind tough. Getting used to the altitude too quickly be the most common mistake. This can happen if you try to do too much in too little time or if you are eager and climb too fast.

Climbers also often fail on Aconcagua Argentina because they don’t train enough or after a few weeks at high elevation, they don’t know how hard it is on their bodies. Summit day can last from twelve to fifteen hours of hard work at very high elevations. You need to have very strong muscles and a lot of stamina to make it through this. You will probably fail and could be in danger if you don’t show up fit enough.

It’s painful and dangerous to wear the wrong gear when you trekking Aconcagua, like boots that are too tight and give you blisters on the long approach. While you’re on training walks, you can test all of your gear to see what’s wrong and make changes. You need to prepare your mind as well as your body because the mental challenges of high altitude, pain, and suffering on the day of the peak test every climber’s willpower.

U. How to Get Better and Thoughts After the Climb

It takes just as much effort to go up Cerro Aconcagua as it does to go down. People who are tired and can’t concentrate are more likely to get hurt. When hikers are tired and don’t pay attention, they often fall on lose ground as they go down. As you go on your trip, make sure you rest, drink water, and move slowly.

Most walkers like to rest for a few days in Mendoza before going home after their Aconcagua ascents. Once you’ve been in the mountains for a while, hot baths, nice beds, tasty food, and just breathing in oxygen-rich air at a low level all feel like treats. To help you heal, you can also go to Mendoza’s wine area, think about what happened, and enjoy your win.

It’s a big deal to finish any Aconcagua expedition or Aconcagua trekking trip, even if you turned around before you got to the top. It takes months of planning and weeks of hard work. You learn a lot about your mind and body when you go mountain climbing. You also learn how to make choices when you’re stressed out. Many hikers say that taking on one of the world’s highest peaks changes their lives, even if they don’t make it to the top.

V. Last Thoughts: Should You Climb Aconcagua?

There are many routes up Aconcagua that can only be done by mountain climbers who are ready to spend a lot of time, money, and effort. Anyone who gets close to the mountain must show respect. It makes people humble and rewards those who are ready. Are you in good shape, have been to high elevations (4,000 to 5,000 meters), and want to take on a challenge at very high elevations? Then Mount Aconcagua is the next mountain you should climb.

You need to be honest with yourself about how much knowledge you have when planning how to climb Aconcagua, how fit you are, and how well you can adapt. You should also be ready to turn around if things or your health call for it. The rock is always there to be climbed again, but going beyond what is safe to reach the top is dangerous for no reason. Going to Aconcagua Argentina after getting a lot of rest, setting reasonable goals, and being fully aware of how hard it is will give you the best chance of both a good climb and a safe descent.

It is worth every minute of planning and every hard step along the way to reach the top of the highest peak in the Western Hemisphere, whether you go on an Aconcagua guided climb, climb it alone, follow the Normal Route, or take the Aconcagua Polish Route. You will have one of the best trips of your life when you successfully climb Aconcagua if you plan it well, train hard, and respect how strong the mountain is.

Ascending Aconcagua: The Vacas Valley and 360 Routes Side by Side

Mount Aconcagua stands guard over the Argentine Andes and draws climbers with its sheer height and harsh beauty. The first important choice for those who answer the call is which way to go to the top. The normal route through Horcones is often the first choice, but for more challenging and strategic hikers, the Vacas Valley Route and the Aconcagua 360 Route are two other great choices. Knowing what makes these paths different is important for planning a successful and rewarding Aconcagua climb.

The Vacas Valley Route is a journey that is both lonely and difficult.

The Vacas Valley Route, which is also known as the Polish Glacier Route, is more than just an alternative route; it’s a whole new kind of adventure. Climbers can start this route at Punta de Vacas and go through a beautiful, remote valley that feels like a world away from the busy trails. The first Aconcagua hike up Vacas Valley is longer and needs more help with logistics, but it offers a peaceful atmosphere and stunning views of the mountain’s eastern slopes.

Climbers who want a more difficult way than the Normal way usually choose this one. To get to the summit ridge, they must navigate the Polish Glacier Traverse. This is why a lot of people who want to try the Vacas Valley path choose an Aconcagua organized climb. Aconcagua Mountain Guides with a lot of experience can help you find your way around glaciers and on this less visited but more difficult side of the mountain. A Vacas Valley Route rise ends with a push to the top from high camps like Colera or Independencia. Climbers usually descend via the standard Horcones path, making the trip half-circle.

All the way around Aconcagua on the Aconcagua 360 Route

The Aconcagua 360 Traverse is the fullest expedition you can imagine. The Vacas Valley Route is a strategic way to get to the top. This route is the complete circle. It was carefully planned to avoid unnecessary backtracking and make the most of acclimatization and scenery variety. Looking at a Aconcagua 360 Route map shows how well it works: it’s organized in a beautiful loop that goes all the way around the mountain.

The trip starts with the Vacas Valley Route, which is used for the climb and is known for being difficult and lonely. But after a successful attempt to reach the top, the group doesn’t just go back to Plaza Argentina; it goes down the whole Horcones Valley. This finishes the “360,” which lets hikers see the mountain from the west and go down past the famous Plaza de Mulas base camp. So, the Aconcagua 360 Route is the best way to see the mountain, because it turns a straight climb into a real exploration hike around one of the world’s highest peaks. More experienced climbers are doing it because they see their Aconcagua ascents as a trip, not just a summit conquest.

Key Comparisons: Picking Your Expedition

There are several useful things to think about when choosing between these two excellent paths.

Time and Logistics: Both paths take longer than the Normal Route, 18 to 21 days on average. The Aconcagua 360 Traverse usually requires the most careful planning because it includes setting up camps and mule support for a full circuit that doesn’t repeat. Reliable companies that run Aconcagua trips will have specific plans and ways to make things work for each group.

Level of Difficulty and Views: The Vacas Valley Route has a more difficult part of climbing on the Polish Glacier Traverse that requires skill with crampons and an ice axe. During the rise, the 360 option shares this technical part. The 360 has the best views of any ride because the views are always changing and show off every part of the mountain.

Crowds and Experience: Solitude is a big reason why people choose these ways over the Normal Route. The Vacas Valley route cuts down on crowds by a lot until you reach the summit ridge. The Aconcagua 360 Traverse is designed to give you a remote and full experience for most of the trip.

Physical Demand: Both are hard on the body, but the full 360 circle has more cumulative distance and vertical gain because it goes around the whole mountain instead of just going up and down one side.

Things to Think About for Your Ascent

Most of the time, when people ask how to climb Aconcagua through either of these routes, they mean an organized trip. Professional guides are highly recommended for all but the most experienced and self-sufficient high-altitude mountaineers because of how remote, difficult the logistics are, and how tricky the terrain is. When choosing a provider, make sure they have specific, past knowledge with the route you want to take.

If you want to climb Aconcagua in the most traditional way, you should take either the difficult ascent of the Vacas Valley or the full circle. They need people who are very fit, mentally tough, and who really value the journey itself. You should take these ways if you think that the remote valleys and high camps are just as important as the moment you reach the top.

Conclusion: we can say that the path is part of the summit.

Which route to take—the Vacas Valley Route or the Aconcagua 360 Route—depends on the goal of your trip. If you want a great, difficult climb in the middle of nowhere, the Vacas Valley Road is the way to go. The 360 Traverse, on the other hand, is the only way to truly understand Mount Aconcagua in its fullness. It offers an epic, self-contained journey where each day brings a new view of the landscape and the summit is the beautiful middle point of a much bigger adventure. If you want to have the best high-altitude experience South America has to offer, the Aconcagua 360 Traverse is the best option. It is the best way to plan and carry out any serious Aconcagua expedition.

Aconcagua Climbing – Never underestimate the “age” of Aconcagua

The cabinet tests carried out on the matrix of the deposits were carried out according to the operating conditions and are described below.

Mineralogical analysis: The mineralogical composition, except clays, has been analyzed from 2-3 grams of an 80-gram sample, ground to a size less than 35 μm, through X-ray diffraction, using a D5000 diffractometer ( Bruker AXS). The Aconcagua 360 Route used Cu radiation and an accessory graphite monochromator. Diffraction data were taken from 4° to 70° 2θ, with a scan width of 0.02° and a counter tube scan time of 2 seconds per step. We worked with 40 KV and 30 mA. The quantitative analysis of the phases was determined using the Rietveld technique contained in the BG MN/AUTOQUAN software (Bergmann et al. 1998).

Grain size analysis: For this type of analysis, 12-15 grams of sample were used. The organic components were dissolved through treatment with H2O2. The remaining material was sieved into two fractions: larger and smaller than 63 μm. The first was screened at all phi divisions (phi > -2). From the material smaller than 63 μm, the clay-sized fraction was separated using the Atterberg method, while that corresponding to silt was analyzed with a Micromeritics SediGraph 5100 in all phi divisions.

Grain roundness grading: Some of the remaining material was sieved at 250-500 μm and 100 grains from each sample were graded using Turner’s two-dimensional visual roundness tester. Bearing in mind that Confluencia is the site where both types of deposits are best exposed, we first How to Climb Aconcagua proceeded to define their lithological characteristics there, to compare later what was observed in the different valleys. With this information, the proper genetic interpretation was carried out. The Confluence above profile is exposed in the ravine located on the left bank of the Inferior Horcones River, just in front of its junction with the Superior Horcones River. This profile, of approximately 20 meters, presents two types of deposits recognizable by their different color and stratigraphic position: 1) reddish, the oldest, and 2) gray, the youngest (upper third of said profile).

The upper, grayish deposit comprises a breccia with blocks several meters in diameter (recognized up to 5 Aconcagua Guided Climb meters) scattered in a poorly selected, also breccia matrix (from gravels to clays), predominantly of the same composition as the blocks. The latter shows the typical lithologies of the volcanoes of the Aconcagua Volcanic Complex, made up of lavas, breccias, and tuffs, of andesitic and dacitic composition. It is important to note that this breccia level covers most of the Confluencia sector.

Aconcagua Climbing – Expedition or climbing alone?

Some small sinkholes in the distal part of the deposit and very few depressions with lagoons, which indicates the presence of an impermeable substrate. The mounds are rounded and smooth on the surface and soils have developed in the depressions. In a profile product of a road cut, a soil has been observed in these depressions, covered by detrital material from the mounds that surround the hollow, as converging microslopes. This remobilization of material from the top of the mounds into the surrounding depressions has considerably smoothed the original surface of the deposit. In addition to gravity, periglacial processes, Aconcagua Argentina surface weathering and wind deposition have contributed to it. Towards the distal zone, at the Confluence with the Cuevas valley, the deposit is divided into two lobes; one penetrates perpendicularly to the valley of the Cuevas river, in the same direction that it brought in the Horcones, while the second lobe extends downstream in the valley of the Cuevas river, advancing approximately 2,000 m in it. The cross-sectional profile of the Horcones deposit indicates that it is higher in the center than towards the flanks. The distal edge of the Horcones deposit is therefore located at the Confluence of the Horcones and Cuevas river valleys. This distal edge of the Horcones deposit is perfectly defined and has a variable height between 5 and 10 meters, which allows the deposit in question to be separated from the surrounding land. The latter correspond to a lithologically similar deposit located just below, and Mount Aconcagua also has an irregular morphology, although smoother than that of the Horcones deposit. In accordance with what was mentioned above, the study of the filling material of the valleys of the area made it possible to distinguish essentially two types of deposits, also well distinguishable by their field (megascopic) and morphological characteristics, previously considered as till by other authors.

Numerous mineralogical, granulometric and roundness analyzes were carried out on the matrix of both deposits present in the different valleys, in order to capture the complete lithological characterization of Aconcagua and precisely define their genesis. Sampling was carried out in the Horcones Inferior, Horcones Superior and Horcones valleys (both proximal and distal, already at the intersection with the Cuevas River). The underlying deposit exposed by the deepening of the Cuevas River, only had a microscopic study of the loose grain of the sandy-silty material in order to determine its mineralogical composition. A synthesis of the lithological characteristics of the Quebrada de Horcones deposit was presented by Lagorio et al.

Do I need technical knowledge to climb Aconcagua?

If we move from the foothills to the high basin of the Mendoza River, Espizua (1989) describes the Penitentes, Horcones and Almacenes drifts. Subsequently, the Horcones deposits were assigned by Pereyra and González Díaz (1993) to flows originating from rotational landslides. Recently Fauqué et al. (2008a and b) considered the three drift deposits as distal flows of rock avalanches. In this case there is no doubt that the area was glaciated during the Pleistocene, but what is being discussed here is the Aconcagua Mountain Guides validity of the glacial stratigraphy of the Mendoza river basin, based on the mass shear deposits identified .

These antecedents allow us to observe that glacial deposits and mass removal deposits have been confused for more than 60 years. Therefore, the need arises to review and reinterpret the morphology together with the sedimentological characteristics of the high mountain Quaternary deposits. The incorrect identification as moraines made of deposits corresponding to rock avalanches that have survived erosion in previously glazed terrain, has been pointed out by Hewitt (2002) as frequent in many parts of the world. Detailed mapping of Quaternary deposits has been insufficient in many high mountain regions, despite the fact that it is linked to knowledge of geological risks.

It was precisely a study linked to the Aconcagua Ascents geological risks that affect the town of Puente del Inca, the reason for which the issue of the genesis of the deposit located in the Horcones ravine was addressed, in order to discern if it is of glacial origin or associated with mass removal. The resolution of this problem made it necessary to extend the observations to the Cuevas river valley and to the deposit assigned to the Penitentes drift.

The recent reinterpretations of the Horcones, Almacenes and Penitentes drifts were presented in abstracts at the XVII Argentine Geological Congress, therefore we intend here to provide all the information on which the new interpretation of the three deposits is based. We will start with the Horcones deposit and finally we will refer to the one located immediately downstream from the town of Penitentes. In the investigation of the Aconcagua Treks Horcones, Almacenes and Penitentes drifts, special attention was paid to the surface morphology of the deposits, their location and extension in the valleys and their volume. The morphological characteristics of the valleys of Horcones Inferior, Horcones, Tolosa, Cuevas and Mario Ardito were also analyzed, comparing them with other valleys in the area. The southern wall of Cerro Aconcagua was also studied in detail, as some anomalous and/or unusual morphologies were noted in it.

Aconcagua Climbing – The challenge of reaching Colera

Finally we arrived in Berlin, we made the tents since there was no room in the shelters, Esteban, who arrived first with Graciela, had a strong dispute with the guide of another expedition who was reserving places inside the shelter, as you can see the “criolla liveliness” it is immune to high altitudes, we look for snow far from the shelters so that it is not contaminated and we make water. Aconcagua Guided Climb

The fatigue at this height is incredible, to set up the tent, look for snow or simply change clothes. I took photos on the ascent. We are all very tired and the lack of oxygen is very noticeable. Tomorrow we plan to leave for the summit at four in the morning, I hope that the weather will be with us and we will achieve it because the effort is tremendous.

It’s a pity that the photos I don’t think show the imposing mountain landscapes and the precipices on the side of the path in their true dimension, when I look down I feel chills, a fall here must be more than 1000ms and without a doubt it is from the path to eternity, there is no chance of surviving something like that, the other big problem and what I see when looking up in some sections are avalanches, those avalanches of thousands of tons of ice and stones that bury everything in their path. However, at no time did I feel fear, only exhaustion and a tremendous desire to reach the summit. Aconcagua Mountain Guides

Arriving in Berlin we see a large number of lower snow-capped hills that surround us and the summit of Aconcagua covered by rock formations. We set up the tents with great effort and again go looking for snow to make water. Melting snow seems simple, but to make a liter of water from snow takes about forty minutes, the specialist in melting it is Mario and I go looking for it, Eduardo is the taster, he does the quality control… an efficient team .

Meals are quick and basic, based on instant soup, cheese, cold cuts, 4-cheese noodles, sausages, and cookies.

At this altitude, it is necessary to hydrate well, approximately 3 liters per day, to prevent the complications of altitude. In general, one is neither hungry nor thirsty despite great efforts, but eats and drinks liquids even if one does not feel like it, because dehydration and weakening due to lack of calories is fatal. I also take a vitamin pill every day. Aconcagua Ascents

The temperatures in Berlin are 15 degrees below zero, in the tent I estimate 5 degrees below zero.The tent moves a lot but it holds, I don’t know if we can go to the summit tomorrow.

Aconcagua Climbing – Different types of training for Aconcagua

Without a doubt, the efforts and sacrifices are great, but the emotions and the incredible and moving landscapes that we observe make up for everything, anyway I think that this is not for everyone and with this I do not want to make a value judgment, one is not even better no worse, it’s different. The sensations that one experiences in these situations are not known in the traditional activities that 90% of people resort to for fun or recreation. Aconcagua 360 Route

We chatted until 10 pm about everything, a very good relationship with my tent mates Eduardo Morales and Mario Mónaco.

Thursday 12 /02 /04

“I am tremendously aware that, if nature deploys all its power, I have no chance. And in that case no plan will work, no matter how well laid out.”

The snowfall continues and last night was the coldest night, I calculate 20 degrees below zero outside and 5 below zero in the tent. Anyway with the sleeping bags we were not cold. Mario continues with a cough, but he slept, Eduardo and I are fine. The tent condensed on all its walls, it is as if it were snowing inside when one touches it.

It dawned very cold, but with sun, if the weather continues like this, we will arrive without problems in Berlin (6000m). We would already be only 1000m from the long-awaited summit. Gladys feels bad and goes downstairs. Her face is very swollen, without a doubt her height is affecting her a lot and she is careful not to take unnecessary risks.

We are waiting for the weather report, to decide the conduct, apparently it is very cold and windy higher up. Aconcagua

Finally, we break camp and leave for Berlin at 1:30 p.m. and arrive at 3:30 p.m. with a 500m drop. It was a very hard ascent because we carry 15 kg in our backpack and the height shows… Leandro turned around halfway through the journey, due to great fatigue and general malaise. We had to reorganize his backpack and the distribution of the tents, each carrying a  How to Climb Aconcagua little of the load that he brought and was essential to continue. What I am telling you in a few words was quite dramatic because it happened in the middle of the climb and with very little room for manoeuvre, the trail is very narrow and the precipices on the side are hundreds of meters long… in general one tries not to look down.

Aconcagua Climbing – Useful data for the Aconcagua

State of Route 40

Check the status of Route 40 on our website: Status of Route 40.

Important Tips

Bring water and food. A map in paper format.

If you are going to visit the mountain range, have warm clothes, a jacket and a warm hat on hand, even in summer. The climate in the high mountains can be variable and the wind chills.

Bring blankets and a heater for any problem that may occur and require you to spend the night on the route.

It can rain torrentially in summer, and summer melting can cause seemingly dry streams to swell. Be careful on speed bumps and water steps.

In winter it can freeze and temperatures in Andean areas drop to -25°C, it can snow and cut off traffic on Route 7.

We suggest reading our tips for driving in snow if you are going to drive in winter as ice in shady areas and snow can be problematic.

Also read our tips for driving safely in the mountains and on gravel roads.

Aconcagua Mountain Guides

Access to Aconcagua from Route 40

This is the access map to Aconcagua from Mendoza.

From the city of Mendoza, take National Route 7, which connects it with Santiago de Chile and drive west towards Puente del Inca. Go past the Argentine Customs (unless you are going to Chile, in which case you must complete the corresponding controls).

Route 40 reaches the city of Mendoza from the South, coming from El Sosneado and Malargüe, and from the North, from San Juan.

We describe the section of the Route in the Uco Valley in our Section from Pareditas to Mendoza (Section 10).

The previous section, towards the South, is the section from Barrancas to Pareditas and the one that follows is the section from Mendoza to Guandacol, passing through the city of San Juan. 

Aconcagua Ascents

Fuel in the Zone

There is fuel in:

Pareditas, San Rafael, San Carlos, Tunuyán, Tupungato, Maipú, Luján de Cuyo, Uspallata, and throughout Greater Mendoza

Location of Service Stations on Route 40

This is the Sigma Project, which seeks to measure the advance of tectonic plates in that massif using GPS. The data you collect is vast. It is in charge of the Ianigla (of the Cricyt), the UNCuyo, the Directorate of Renewable Natural Resources and the University of Hawaii. Through the so-called Acon GPS Permanent Station and the meteorological station, which are already operational, GPS reference patterns will be established in Argentina, and the variations in height and displacement of that hill and other chains will be specified for seismological purposes; It will also provide information on glaciers using a method similar to tomography Aconcagua Treks

Aconcagua Climbing – Unforgettable experience in South America

Tuesday 10 / 02 / 04

“When one is stressed and nervous, complaining and complaining is tempting, but such behavior is only useful if someone can fix things for you, and in the mountains everyone is responsible for himself” Aconcagua Hike

Today we set up camp to go to Nido de Cóndores (5600mts). This morning there was a problem between Gladys and Belén, who are tent mates. Apparently Gladys is not very cooperative with daily tasks, I know that she does the minimum and is also the slowest of the group, which causes problems in the marches, as if all this were not enough, poor Belén lost the water she was heating Inside the tent, she began to cry, I think it is the sum of everything that has been said, plus the effort, the lack of oxygen, the tension typical of the situation we are experiencing and fundamentally the lack of “wave” between them.

In general, except for these small incidents, the group works well. Eduardo slept spectacularly and today he is another, on the march to Nido de Cóndores he went very well. It was a very hard journey due to the higher altitude, the 15 kg of the backpack and the steep slopes. It took me a lot of effort but it went well. Leandro did not tolerate the march and Fernando had to help him with the backpack, I do not think he will attempt the summit, the same situation is that of Gladys. Aconcagua Expeditions

The place is moving, how to describe in words the grandeur of the mountains and this landscape that so few people know, I feel privileged and I give “thanks to life that has given me so much”. The summit is already close, from Here you can see the paths of ascent and I take photos. I went to look for snow to melt at 100mts, all in slow motion, I finish doing this and it starts to snow. In an hour everything was white, some began to throw snowballs, as you can see the spirit is excellent.

I am a little worried about the radio news that reports a storm in the high mountains, the people who love me must be scared, but we are very well and I have no way of communicating with anyone. Aconcagua Climb

Snowfall in summer is very rare in Nido de Cóndores and we had the privilege. We dined on sausages with mash and grated cheese for lack of butter and milk. Although it snowed all night we were not cold in the tent.

Aconcagua Climbing – How far in advance should you prepare your expedition?

When we arrived in Canada, I had to go get water from a small stream that was 500 meters from the camp and with a slope of 35 degrees, I got quite agitated. For those who have never been in these situations, it is like walking with shoes that weigh 5 kg each, climbing slopes. It is impossible to run or walk fast, one immediately becomes agitated, nausea, vomiting and headache appear. Aconcagua Expedition

With all this I was really tired, so we ate some delicious noodles with sauce and tuna, made by Mario and we fell asleep at 8 pm. I share the high mountain tent with Mario and Eduardo.

Eduardo couldn’t sleep all night and the next morning he wanted to go back. Insomnia, headache and the permanent feeling of shortness of breath are common, and will increase with altitude. They comment that in Berlin (6000mts) it is very difficult to sleep because of all this, due to these symptoms and the progressive weakening of the body due to lack of oxygen, it is necessary to stay as short as possible above 6000mts. Aconcagua Treks

I slept 4 hours straight and two intermittently. I have a feeling of tension in my head that does not become pain and fatigue if I move quickly, even changing clothes is done very slowly and it is very difficult to put on the boots, it takes me approximately 15 minutes, stopping several times.

For two days, Mario has an irritative cough that is quite annoying for him and those around him, this makes it difficult for him to sleep well, therefore the one who sleeps best, of the three, is me.

Tonight I plan to give 1.5 mg of bromazepam to each of my colleagues, because I think they are “over the top”. I was carrying a heavily loaded backpack, I estimate 15 kg, despite which we climbed from 4,200 to 4,910 (700mts) in 4 hours. It was a major effort done at a slow pace, about one short step per second. When you see the expeditions at this point they seem to go in slow motion and it really is the only way. Climb Aconcagua

“Human beings set goals throughout their existence. They reach some and set others… but what is an achievement worth if you are unable to enjoy life while it lasts and struggle to achieve it? Choose the most sublime goals, the life will take care of the rest”