Category: Aconcagua Expeditions

Aconcagua Argentina – It is always good to return to Aconcagua

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In the Cordillera de los Andes -in the province of Mendoza- is the Aconcagua hill, the highest elevation in America. Framed by a spectacular natural environment, it integrates one of the most beautiful landscapes in Argentina. In the geological constitution of this Andean sector, it is recognized: a pre-Jurassic basement, formed between 320 and 205 million years; Mesozoic sequences made up of marine and continental rocks, aged between 170 and 80 million years; Neogene sediments and volcanoes formed between 20 and 8 million years ago, and a cover of recent sediments. The geological evolution of the Aconcagüina region is a magnificent example of mountain-generating processes, which began in a marine basin in the Jurassic and reached the formation of a massif that reaches 7 kilometers in height today. South of Aconcagua, the Cuevas River valley has been a crossing point for the Andes since pre-Columbian times, and that is why there are historical remains from different eras scattered throughout the area. Currently, Aconcagua is a privileged tourist destination, especially for lovers of mountain sports.

Cerro Aconcagua is a mountain in the Cordillera de los Andes, located in the province of Mendoza, 185 km. from its capital and 15 kilometers from the border with Chile, in the Department of Las Heras. With an altitude of 6,962 meters above sea level, it is the highest peak in America.

On February 28, 2017, the MSI sensor on board the Sentinel-2A satellite obtained an image of Cerro Aconcagua with a spatial resolution of 10 meters. Aconcagua 360 Route

In the image in natural color combination, the surface covered by eternal snow and the numerous glaciers such as the Polacos on the northeastern slope can be identified in white, which contrasts with the brown of the bare soil and exposed rocks of the environment. In this high-altitude area, the climate is cold, dry and windy, so no development of vegetation is seen in the image.

This hill is located within the Aconcagua Provincial Park, declared a Provincial Park in 1983 with 71,000 hectares. This protected area has one of the most valuable natural resources on the planet, fresh water, which is contained mainly in glaciers. Likewise, it houses an important animal and plant diversity adapted to adverse environmental conditions (low temperatures and great aridity), characteristics of the high Andean phytogeographic region. How to Climb Aconcagua

Cerro Aconcagua, which gives its name to the reserve, is its main tourist attraction, capturing the attention of climbers and hikers from the most diverse places in the world. Aconcagua Guided Climb

The most recognized conception of the word “Aconcagua” comes from the Quechua language Akon – Kahuak which means “Stone Sentinel”. In the Aymara language, the words Kon – Kawa can be translated as “Monte Nevado”.

Aconcagua Argentina – Some tips for climbing Aconcagua

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Aconcagua is the highest peak in the world outside the Himalayas.

Its 6,962 meters high and its incredible landscapes make it the goal of mountaineers from all over the world. The “Colossus of America” ​​is as longed for as it is wild and in order to reach its summit we must prepare ourselves physically and mentally since it is capable of taking us to the limit of our body and spirit.

Temperatures down to -30°C

This mystical mountain is capable of punishing us with temperatures that reach -30°C, unstoppable winds of more than 100 km and as if this were not enough, we must add the effect of height that modifies our body due to the lack of oxygen. But don’t be scared! The harder the challenge, the more we will enjoy the triumph. In order for your chances of reaching the top to be high, it will be important to have specific equipment that we are going to tell you about below.

WE WILL DIVIDE THE NECESSARY EQUIPMENT INTO

CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT FOR TREKKING

CAMP

CLOTHING FOR EXPEDITION

The Horcones (2950 meters)

The first stage of our trip will find us in the Los Horcones valley (2950) where the entrance to the Aconcagua National Park is located. During the journey to base camp, we will generally find pleasant temperatures that can range between 20°C and 30°C, so the first stage of our trip does not require clothing as complex as we will see later. Mount Aconcagua

1: CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT FOR TREKKING

  • Footwear: Waterproof trekking boots
  • Foot protection: Stockings made of synthetic material.
  • Pants: Removable quick-drying pants
  • Shirt: Long-sleeved thermal shirt made of synthetic material.
  • Superior Coat: Jacket or Windstopper diver
  • Eye protection: Sunglasses
  • Head protection: Hat or cap with UV filter if possible.

 

70 LITERS BACKPACK

It must be comfortable and of excellent quality, we are going to carry everything we will need throughout our adventure, so it must have an estimated capacity of 70L.

TREKKING STICKS

Like the backpack, the trekking poles will be our companions during the route, they will help our body to maintain balance, better distribute the weight and facilitate walking.

 

We can already see the base camp of Aconcagua…

PLAZA MULAS (4260 meters) Aconcagua Argentina

We reached our first big goal! We can already see the base camp of Aconcagua. Plaza de Mulas is located at an altitude of 4,260 meters and there we will find a park ranger and medical attention post.

Constantly reviewing our physical condition is essential since we are at a considerable height. Not all organisms react to the decrease in oxygen in the same way, not paying attention to the signals that the human body sends us can put our lives at risk.

The fatigue of the accumulated marches and the acclimatization to the altitude make it increasingly difficult to recover energy. Having the ideal team for the camp is going to make a difference in the stages ahead of us.

 

Aconcagua Argentina – Best time to climb Aconcagua

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Aconcagua is the highest mountain in the American Continent, this is one of the reasons why it is known worldwide. Although its fame is mainly due to its great mountain attractions. According to some international mountain experts who have climbed in the Himalayas, the almost seven thousand meters of Aconcagua represent psychologically and physiologically several hundred meters more. This phenomenon is due to known and unknown reasons. In the Himalayas there is vegetation up to 5,000 meters, in the Central Andes only up to 3,500-4,000 meters. The ambient relative humidity is very low and the thickness of the layers of the atmosphere, in this area of ​​the globe, has particularities that determine these effects. Climbing Aconcagua

These factors, added to the great uninhabited distances, the general desert aspect and the isolation from any assistance, undoubtedly have important consequences on the human being. All this contributes to Aconcagua being an appropriate terrain for measuring and preparing to subsequently access mountains higher than 8,000 meters, constituting an excellent game setting, where the mountaineer can feel completely at ease and fulfill many of his greatest sporting ambitions.  Aconcagua Expeditions

Both the eastern edge, the «Glaciar de Los Polacos», and the South-West edge, present appropriate conditions for visitors to display their abilities at various levels of demand, as well as the West face. The North-West slope of the mountain, where the normal route runs, without technical difficulties, allows high-altitude sport climbing and is also suitable for practicing recreational climbing. The latter facet is only recommended, under the direction of guides and for individuals in excellent physical condition, suitably equipped.

Regarding the South face, its desolate and severe environment, the poor quality of the rock, the constant dangers of seracs and snow avalanches, stone falls, the great unevenness, the significant height above sea level, the threat of sudden climatic changes, plus the truly total isolation, are the factors that give it its “wild” condition.

From a technical point of view, the wall presents all kinds of difficulties on ice, snow and rock. And whoever faces the ascent must have a good climbing technique, great physical condition, considerable experience and, fundamentally, a lot of enthusiasm and perseverance. Aconcagua Climb

In this immense mountain it is possible to perform high-level mountaineering, interrelated with a large dose of adventure, The “Stone Sentinel”, a hieratic pyramid for the Inca centuries ago, still treasures mysteries and its magnificent silhouette catches the dreams of many mountaineers.

Aconcagua Argentina – You should come climb this mountain

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From the vicinity of «Casa de piedra», we leave the valley of the «de las Vacas» river to follow the «de los Relinchos» river westwards. Here the slope increases and several slopes of tiresome traffic follow one another. Finally you access a meadow at 3,800 m. But it is convenient to keep going up and cross the river with its steep banks and continue up to a large square rock about 20 meters high and very characteristic. Immediately you must go down a few tens of meters, to a large esplanade very exposed to the winds, but with water and favorable for camping, Plaza Argentina 4100. Climb Aconcagua

The approach from Punta de Vacas is about 60 km and a little over 2,000 m of elevation gain. It is convenient to do it in three days.

The Times (days)

Punta de Vacas – “Leñas” Refuge: 3 to 6 a.m. – Day 1

“Leñas” Refuge – Vacas River crossing – “Casa de Piedra” Refuge: 5 a.m. to 8 a.m. – Matchday 2

“Casa de piedra” shelter – Plaza Argentina: 5 a.m. to 8 a.m. – Day 3

Access routes from Argentina

Glacier of the Poles

East Glacier Aconcagua Expedition

The Aconcagua… The Stone Sentinel… In its buried slopes, where the ice and the wind are sovereign, extremes are often touched: the beginning and the end of a path; success and failure; life and death.

Mythical mass that raises its top towards the stars, while its shadow is projected from the desert to the ocean. Scene of unusual stories, of great gestures of courage and heroism. Also debunker of vanities and fears. In this demanding environment, man shows himself as he is, there is no room for lies.

How far is it valid to risk your life to reach the top of it?

The answer only fits up there. nobody, lounging in the lukewarmness of a timorous life, can judge the one who wastes his own vitality. High-altitude mountaineering involves serious risks and whoever decides to practice it must be absolutely and exclusively responsible for their actions. Aconcagua Hike

Today mountaineering is a game. A game of fantasy and power where technique, physical ability, experience, ethics and determination converge. Mountains as mountaineering goals only exist in the imagination of man, in his fantasy. Ascension is conceived as if it were a problem and a playful solution is sought for it. The game consists of cleanly overcoming the greatest difficulties with the help of the least possible technological means with the highest degree of skill, training and audacity. Mountaineering as a means for the human being to grow. You should not fight against nature, but adapt to it, understand it, respect its rhythm and try to assimilate the power it contains. Only in this way will beautiful solutions continue to be achieved for the “big problems” of mountaineering. And only through this vision of the game, whoever plays it cleanly, will have access to unsuspected dimensions of their own being and of the whole world.

Aconcagua Argentina – 6 months of prior preparation

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This exit variant simplifies the climb of the last third of the South wall.

From the “Upper Glacier”, instead of going to the right in search of the base of the spur that the French followed in 1954, take a clear left of the visual vertical of the northern peak. In the direction of the “Guanaco” pass that extends between the two peaks of the mountain.

Aconcagua Mountain Guides

Climb the slopes of ice and snow that lead to an obvious rocky fringe. Slopes from 50° to 55°. The rocky strip is climbed in an ascending traverse to the left, 5 or 6 pitches of mixed terrain, (IV) and some passage of (V). Belay possibilities on natural ledges, poor quality rock. The start, depending on the general snow conditions, can be on very dangerous frozen mud.

The beginning of the slope of ice and terminal snow is thus gained. This large, very open terminal channel has an average slope of 50°. It is dominated to the left by a large hanging serac that is threatening and dangerous in the event of landslides.

Go straight up the great channel to a small rocky barrier (6,700 m), go around it to the left and continue until you reach the “guanaco” crest or summit ridge. From the “Upper Glacier” to the crest about 8-12 hours. It is possible to bivouac in the lateral cracks of the hanging serac (6,650 m). From the starting point to the top there are about 2 hours.

Aconcagua Ascents

When the conditions of the wall are unfavorable (excessive accumulation of recent snow or, on the contrary, a winter with few snowfalls), the Messner variant is dangerous; Therefore, the original exit/54 is advisable, technically more difficult, but exposed to fewer objective dangers. If the snow is abundant, the dangers of being swept away by an avalanche in the “Messner Canal” are very great. Likewise, when there is little consistent snow that fixes the rocks of the top edge and other upper areas, the channel collects the constant falls of fast projectiles.

Beyond difficulties and dangers, the Messner/74 route is the most elegant route on the southern wall of Aconcagua, after the Slovenian route/82, direct to the southern peak. Plaza Argentina is located at 4,100 meters and is a good place to camp. To access this place, you start from the town of Punta de Vacas (2,400 m) and go up the “de las Vacas” river to the north. There is water and firewood throughout the creek, the path is well marked.

Aconcagua Treks

On the orographic right bank of the «de las Vacas» river, 15 km away is the «Casa de las Leñas» refuge (2,350 m). At 31 km (from Punta de Vacas) you cross the river of Las Vacas. Finally, and on the orographic left bank of the same river, rises the small shelter «Casa de piedra» (3,060 m), 47 km from the starting point, just in front of the mouth of the «de los Relinchos» ravine. This small shelter blends in with the landscape and is difficult to find, there is water in the area.

Aconcagua Argentina – Never Give Up Your Dreams

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Starting from camp 2, climb obliquely to the left (direction East), until you reach the glacier. It is climbed directly to the right of it (orography left), slopes of 30 to 35 degrees. Then the glacier begins to gradually rise until it reaches a maximum inclination of 45 to 48 degrees, around 6,450 – 6,550 meters. Here you cross the “bottleneck” and continue straight up, while the Aconcagua 360 Route slope decreases slightly. Finally, the edge that limits the south wall is reached. Here the inclination decreases very noticeably and it is possible to walk in the snow. The descent can be done by the same route or by the normal route, the latter being the most advisable and fastest option.

The descent along the normal route is developed first by the “canaleta”, then to the north in a traverse crossing next to the “Peñon Martinez”, arriving at the “Portezuelo de los vientos” and, finally, the “Independencia” refuge at 6,250 meters . From this shelter directly down to the North-East. Camp 2 is perfectly located.

How to Climb Aconcagua

The “Stone Sentinel” rises to the sky, to the south, (an immense wall almost 3,000 meters high and 7 kilometers wide). The legendary French mountaineer Lionel Terray visited the great wall during the southern summer of 52/53, after climbing the once mythical Fitz Roy. He considered then that the impressive wall of ice and rock constituted a colossal alpinistic problem. And he was not wrong…

The aspect of the South wall as a whole is one of difficulty, danger and, at that moment, almost impregnable. But it is very clear that mountaineers of all times hate the word impossible. During the southern summer of 53/54, a strong French expedition led by Rene Ferlet reached the bottom of the “Horcones inferior” ravine, on the margin of the glacier of the same name. There they installed their comfortable base camp, in what is now known as “Plaza Francia” (4,100 m), ready to besiege the wall of the great mountain.

After acclimatizing and carefully studying the slope, they chose the large spur that limits the gigantic central avalanche channel of the wall to the right. This spur is relatively protected from any falling ice or rocks. Towards the end of the second third it is interrupted to give rise to a large balcony of ice called “Upper Glacier”. This is a hanging glacier that pours its ice cascades into a void of almost 2,000 meters and constitutes one of the main dangers of climbing on the south face.

Aconcagua Guided Climb

They used more than a month of acclimatization and preparations, during which they equipped the first difficult sections of the spur with fixed ropes. Towards the end of February, 6 climbers launched themselves to the top. The group was made up of G.Poulet, R. Paragot, P. Lesseur, L. Berardini, A. Dagory, E. Denis, at that time the best French mountaineers, which was equivalent to saying in the world.

For seven days they struggled between the unstable rocks and the ice, severely affected by the cold, they finally managed to reach the top. There was then talk of “heroic bravado.” Undoubtedly the French created one of the hardest routes in the world, being at the time, the most difficult wall, with the greatest slope and the highest above sea level, that avant-garde mountaineering managed to climb.

Aconcagua Climbing – Information Necessary for Your Expedition

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The climate that affects the protected area that we analyze can be classified as a Temperate semi-arid mountain. It is characterized by the irregularity of the rainfall regime that the variations that, in this aspect, suffer from the area due to the climatic influence of the Atlantic domain, with summer rains, and the Pacific domain with its predominantly winter rainfall. Important in the Aconcagua treks.

Despite the great distance that separates it from the Atlantic, this mountainous part receives from that sector the low humidity that generally precipitates in the form of significant snowfalls in the highest positions, during May to August mostly. Its frequency and magnitude decrease towards the east.

From the Pacific, the climate is most influenced by the action of the Pacific anticyclone that generates westerly winds. These winds rise, and when they collide with the hills of the mountain range. The Chilean coast is affected by two well-differentiated currents, the Humbold one, the southern sector. Depending on the origin of the wind, both influence the area, although, to a much greater extent, the winds of the southwestern sector are necessary for the Aconcagua Mountain guides.

In the mountain range, the ascent of the air is made markedly through the hills’ valleys and slopes, and due to the low pressure that exists in the summits, this air generally rises during the afternoons and forms accumulations but is not produced. At night the opposite phenomenon occurs, and the wind blows from the top towards the valleys.

Like all regions with marked altitudinal variations, the temperature is a climatic factor dependent on them.

In the entire Cuyana mountain range, strong cold winds from the west and south-west sector occur in winter, which when they blow together with snowfalls, the dreaded white wind is formed. Under particular atmospheric conditions, these same winds cross the Before undergoing abrupt changes that make them hot and dry when they reach the lowlands, as occurs with the folkloric Zonda wind.

As for the summer temperatures, it must be taken into account that during the nights, over 5,000 m.a.s.l. -20 ° C is a non-exceptional value, and at the top, it reaches -30 ° C. In Plaza de Mulas, in times of bad weather conditions are usually –18 C °. During winter, the area is heavily covered with snow, and the temperature rarely exceeds 0 ° C. the location area of ​​the Aconcagua Ascents Provincial Park allows it to be classified phytogeographically according to Cabrera (1976) .in what he calls the High Andean Province, which encompasses all the high mountains that are located west of Argentina from the Bolivian territory to Tierra del Fuego. According to the latitude, this biome is divided into districts, denominating the High Andean Cuyano District that occupies the Andes of San Juan and Mendoza provinces. The classification made by PRODIA (1999) does not differ too much from the one mentioned above, only that the latter starts at approximately 38º Lat.S. towards the south, it ceases to be called the Eco-region of the High Andes to be called the Patagonian Forests, due to the presence of the Valdivian jungle in this sector.

Aconcagua Climbing – Glaciers and Formations on Aconcagua

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The glacial action was much more significant in the past, and the geomorphology that can be seen today is modified by the action of subsequent processes such as mass removal and fluvial action. The current glaciers of the mountain range in general, which therefore affect the Aconcagua Guided Climb, are classified as valley glaciers, mountain glaciers, and snow patches; These, in turn, can be presented as uncovered, covered by debris and rock glaciers. Almost the entire fluvial network of Mendoza corresponds to the Desaguadero basin formed by the Mendoza, Tunuyán, Diamante and Atuel rivers. The Barrancas and Grande rivers that form Colorado do not integrate the mentioned basin in the southern part.

All these watercourses are born in the mountainous area and descend to the plains, where they interrupt their basins due to their intense use for irrigation. They are antecedent rivers (which conserved their courses since before the orographic formations) that cross the mountains through enormous gorges eroded during the tertiary movements, and practice many of them lack water for much of the year and with the spring thaw their channels are They make it very torrential.

The Mendoza River is formed from the union of the Tupungato and Las Cuevas rivers. It receives the waters of the Horcones, Santa María, and Vaca’s rivers that descend from Aconcagua. Note the difference in the flow of a river that feeds on thaws such as the Mendoza, comparing its average flow, calculated at approximately 55 m3 / sec., With 750 m3 / sec. that reaches in the summer.

Aconcagua 360 Route is surrounded to the west and southwest by the Río de Los Horcones that runs through the valley of the same name and part of the northern and eastern sectors by the Río de las Vacas. The Los Relinchos stream is born on the eastern slopes, which feeds the Vacas river after a short journey.

There are no glacial lakes, and we only see some remains of them in the form of small buckets in the high mountains.

The Laguna de Los Horcones is the most critical water mirror in the preserved area. Glaciers, those enormous masses of ice that occupy the highest parts of the massifs, have their maximum expression in conservation unity.

Two are found on the southern slope (Horcones inferior and Horcones superior glaciers) and the resulting glaciers on the North and Northeast slopes, the main one being Las Vacas, located at the head of the homonymous river.

How to climb Aconcagua

On the south and east walls, the aforementioned Polish glacier stands out, with an area that reaches 700 hectares, and the Güssfeld glacier with a site that exceeds 1,000 hectares.

Aconcagua Climbing – Interesting Facts About Aconcagua

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The Aconcagua hill is located at the southern end of the chain called Los Penitentes and with its 6,959 meters above sea level. It carries the attribute of being the highest elevation in the American continent and its great height, like that of other nearby hills. It does not correspond to active volcanic structures such as Tupungato, but instead, its current altitude results from the tectonic uplift of the mountain range. It is guarded by high-rise colossi such as Cerro Catedral to the northwest with 5,200 meters above sea level, El Cuerno (5,450), Bonete (5,100), and others located in the Valle de Los Horcones Superior. In the so-called Valle de los Horcones Inferior are the Ibáñez hills (5,200), the Mirador hill (5,800) among the highest. Between 27º and 33º 30 ‘, no quaternary volcanism is observed, and seismic activity is concentrated in a thin strip along the western edge, which coincides with the most active geotectonic zone where significant earthquakes occur.

A remarkable characteristic is that only the very high peaks are covered by glaciers, which occurred during a series of advances during the Quaternary since the lower limit of eternal snow is very high due to aridity and intense insolation. This gives rise to the erection of the penitents, a very characteristic formation of this area of ​​the Andes, consisting of mounds of snow about 3 meters high with the appearance of monks. Caused by the melting of the superficial layers of the snow due to the intense insolation that by forming furrows that deepen over time, the area is covered with those sharply aligned mounds. These formations, due to their appearance, give their name to the Los Penitentes chain of elevations. Drainage occurs in high peaks such as Aconcagua by a vast network to which the melting of ice and snow is added, which forms a very dense material that favors rubble slopes frequently.

The “stone sentinel,” meaning the origin of the word Aconcagua Argentina in the Quichua language, is about 12 kilometers from the border with the sister Republic of Chile. Its coordinates are 32º 39′ Lat.S and 70º 01′ Long. O. (Atlas I.G.M., 1998). They are 71,000 hectares of mountainous terrain’s dry, arid environment with little vegetation on the slopes. The foothills are from extensive ranges separated by huge valleys whose height sometimes drops to 2,000 meters above sea level. On the south wall and also on the one that faces east, Mount Aconcagua has impressive glaciers such as the so-called Polaco that runs along this slope between approximately 6,900 and 5,900 meters above sea level, with an area close to 700 hectares and the Güssfeld, with much more extension than above. One of the largest in the area is the La Vacas glacier, with  ​​almost 2,000 hectares.

Aconcagua Climbing – Structure and Age of Aconcagua

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Law 5,463 approves the primary zoning proposed by the Advisory Commission referred to above and authorizes the Executive Branch to grant two hectares in Plaza de Mulas for 50 years to construct a hotel. Then, in 1990, another legal instrument – Decree 2,819 – established various regulations related to mountaineering, setting tariffs, the season for promotions, security systems, and other items related to these issues. The “framework law” that orders everything related to the protected areas of the province of Mendoza is the one that bears the number 5,630.

Relief, The geological-structural constitution of the mountain range, is complex, and for its analysis can be divided into three sufficiently differentiated parts. One of them is the one that extends approximately between parallels 28º and 34º, a portion that in turn can be subdivided into two parallel cords, an eastern one called Cordillera Frontal and the other western, where the Aconcagua climb Provincial Park is located, which leads by name Cordillera Principal or del Límite, which is about 70 kilometers wide south of the Diamante River and narrows towards the north, where it only reaches 30 kilometers in the region of the prospected Park. It is significant to clarify that these two chains do not have a well-defined division between them, except for a few small sections, and that both sections are ideally linked .The main difference between them is the type of rocks that compose it. The Main Cordillera is formed by layers of marine sediments with fossils from the Jurassic and Cretaceous ages and pyroclastic rocks on the western side (González Bonorino, 1958). At the same time, it is separated from the Precordillera – a different mountain formation – by several valleys that, at the height of the surveyed area, is Uspallata that fulfills this purpose. Aconcagua Expeditions is located at the southern end of the chain called Los Penitentes and with its 6,959 m.a.s.l. It carries the attribute of being the highest elevation in the American continent and its great height, like that of other nearby hills. It does not correspond to active volcanic structures such as Tupungato, but rather its current altitude results from the tectonic uplift of the mountain range. It is guarded by high-rise colossi such as Cerro Catedral to the northwest with 5,200 meters above sea level, El Cuerno (5,450), Bonete (5,100), and others located in the Valle de Los Horcones Superior. In the so-called Valle de los Horcones Inferior are the Ibáñez hills (5,200), the Mirador hill (5,800) among the highest. Between 27º and 33º 30 ‘, no quaternary volcanism is observed, and seismic activity is concentrated in a thin strip along the western edge, which coincides with the most active geotectonic zone where significant earthquakes occur. You have to achieve climbing Aconcagua